For those of you new to the world of re-purposing lingo, “cutters’ are damaged tablecloths that crafters and others use for sewing projects. Often “cutters’ have big holes or stains making them hard to sell as a collectible tablecloths. But these still have value to creative crafters who are constantly coming up with new ideas on how to salvage the best parts of these textiles. You can buy “cutters’ on Etsy, eBay and from dealers who buy lots of tablecloths.

Cutter Tablecloth Listed on eBay by RosesButtons

Here a a couple of tips on what to look for:

• Look for where the stains or holes are. Usually projects utilize the patterned or embroidered portion of the fabric. You want to have enough of these portions free and clear to make your project.
• Look for bleached out areas or large frays (larger than a quarter). These weaken the fabric itself and indicate that the material may be weakened and won’t last in your project. So unless you plan to back the fabric in your project, you may want to skip that tablecloth.
• Look for cloths that haven’t been cleaned. Sometimes you can use a soak to improve the stain so that you can still use it in your project.
• Please don’t use a collectible vintage tablecloth as a cutter. These Hint: Click on the links and photo for more information!

On Sunday, I’m listing a vintage Fisher Price toy and thought I’d give you a little background about Fisher Price and it’s toys.

1959 Fisher Price Wood/Plastic Toy

Company History:

According to Wikipedia, Fisher Price was founded in 1930 by Herman Fisher, Irving Price and his wife, illustrator and artist Margaret Evans Price and Helen Schelle.  The name Fisher-Price was established by combining two of the three founders’ names.  Fisher-Price’s fundamental toy-making principles centered on intrinsic play value, ingenuity, strong construction, good value for the money, and action. Early toys were made of heavy steel parts and ponderosa pine, which resisted splintering and held up well to heavy use. The details and charm were added with colorful lithographic labels. Mrs. Price was the first Art Director and designed push-pull toys for the opening line, based on characters from her children’s books. 

In 1931, the three founders took 16 of their wooden toys to the American International Toy Fair in New York City and they quickly became a success. The first Fisher-Price toy ever sold was “Dr. Doodle” in 1931.  In the early 1950s, Fisher-Price identified plastic as a material that could help the company incorporate longer-lasting decorations and brighter colors into its toys. “Buzzy Bee” was the first Fisher-Price toy to make use of plastic. By the end of the 1950s, Fisher-Price manufactured 39 toys incorporating plastics.

During the 1960s, the Play Family (later known as Little People) product line was introduced and soon overtook the popularity of earlier toys. In 1969 the Quaker Oats Company bought Fisher-Price. In 1991, Fisher-Price regained its independence from The Quaker Oats Company and became a publicly traded company. Two years later, in November 1993, Fisher Price became a wholly owned subsidiary of Mattel.

This week I had this experience on my RosesButtons site. On Wednesday, I listed my collector buttons as “buy it now” instead of at auction as an experiment. And wow! Here it is Friday, and two of the four are sold already!

So, that makes me wonder if I shouldn’t do more initial listing as “buy it now” instead of as “auction” listings. So I created a poll to ask you what you think. I’ve listed the main types of listings that I do as Roses Sundries. And you can tell me what you think.

Buy It Now or Auction??

I will respect your privacy and you don’t have to give any information you don’t want to give. But if you’d like a personal response, please include the information that I need to do so.

I recently listed a banjo ukulele and before I did so, I consulted a local ukulele player that I know about what it was. My question was “Is it a toy?” Her response was “No, it’s a banjo ukulele”. Well, with the correct terminology in hand, I googled “banjo ukulele” and discovered a whole new world. New banjo ukuleles, banjo ukulele instruction and music are readily available.

Banjo Ukulele

Here are the highlights:

• It isn’t known who invented the banjo ukulele, although some sources credit a Hawaiian by the name of Alvin D. Keech with the invention of the banjo ukulele, in 1917 or 1918. He trademarked the name “Banjulele.” But, banjo ukeleles exist that were made by John A. Bolander in California, with a patent date of 1916.
• Banjo ukuleles produced more volume than did the ukulele. This made them very popular.
• Banjo ukuleles are about the same size as regular ukulele and are tuned the same.
• Most banjo ukuleles have a pot size (head diameter) of between six and eight inches. Most modern banjos have eleven inch pots.
• During the 1920s and 1930s banjo ukuleles were produced by most of the banjo makers. They were manufactuered by the thousands, and the majority of them were inexpensive instruments, often retailing for $2.00 or possibly even less.
• Banjo ukuleles parallel banjo construction, on a smaller scale, in terms of overall construction. They are almost always fretted.
• Most are built of wood with metal accoutrements, although the mid-century “Dixie” brand featured banjo ukeleles made from solid metal.
• The neck typically has sixteen frets: shorter than a banjo, but longer than a standard soprano or concert sized ukulele.
• Banjo ukuleles may be open-backed, or may incorporate a resonator.
• The banjo ukulele is commonly tuned GCEA (”C Tuning”) or ADF#B (”D Tuning”), with a re-entrant 4th string. The ADF#B tuning often produces a more strident tone, and is used for this reason. Both of these tunings are known as “my dog has fleas” tunings (5th, Tonic, Maj 3rd, Maj 6th).

Sources:
banjoukes.com
Wikipedia
For Strings,bridge,vellums
UK History site

Hint: click on links for more information!

Vintage Crochet Tablecloth

I’ll be listing a lovely hand crocheted tablecloth soon. Here are some interesting things I learned when researching vintage crochet tablecloths.

• Crochet tablecloths are made in two ways. The most common is utilizing a motif which is connected one by one and then surrounded by a crocheted border. The other is strip crocheted, end to end with the same design worked over and over.

Motif Crochet Tablecloth

Strip Crochet Tablecloth

• The best way to clean a crocheted tablecloth is by soaking in a large container like a bathtub. These beauties are too heavy when wet to lift safely. They’ll tear and be damaged. The recommended method is to line the container with a white bedsheet, then place the tablecloth on top. Add cool water and detergent. Soak and then agitate carefully by hand. Drain the water, then refill with cool water to rinse. Repeat this process until the water runs clear. Blot the wet tablecloth with white towels to remove excess water. Do NOT wring. Repeat until excess water is removed. Then lift the tablecolth out of the container by lifting the bedsheet. Carefully transfer the wet tablecloth to a dry sheet outdoors and lay flat to dry in the sun.
• Store vintage tablecloths by either rolling them or by carefully folding and laying flat in a drawer. Periodically (at least twice a year) refold and roll in the opposite direction to prevent the formation of creases. Do not store in plastic or in contact with wood. Wood drawers should be lined with acid free paper to prevent contact with the wood. Acid free tissue paper can also be used to line the inside of each fold to pad and support that area.

Hint: click on the links for more information!

You may not know that I organize and run tag (or estate) sales for my church. We provide a service to folks wishing to downsize or for families of individuals who are deceased. We run as a crew with specialists in the various tasks necessary to run a successful sale. But if you are doing it yourself, you can learn from our system.

Pre Sale Set Up

We usually set aside 2-3 weeks for pre-sale set up activities. We bring in tables, lay out the flow of the sale, and sort items by type. We then bring in our pricing crew and price everything.

• Organization
  • Bring in tables and display racks. Folks need to see the item to become interested in it. A jumbled pile will discourage sales rather than encourage them. The closer you can get an item to eye level for a standing adult, the better visibility the item will receive. Put small bookcases on top of tables or make racks from boxes and boards wherever you can.
  • Determine what areas of the home or garage you want the public to access and what the flow of traffic will be. You don’t want people bumping into each other and you want to have enough space between tables to allow people to pass each other without touching.
  • Assess the lighting in each area that you are using. You may need to supplement with lamps so that items are visible.
  • Arrange like items together. Kitchen items with kitchen items, knick knacks in the same area, books together, etc.
  • Small valuable items need to be at the cashier’s table where they can be monitored. If you have glass covered cases or jewelry boxes for these items, they’re much safer and appear more valuable.
  • Arrange books with spine up in rows on top of a table. Use small boxes(filled with books) on the ends of the table to hold the books in place. You can move the boxes inward to keep order in the area as the sale proceeds.
  • Resist the temptation to display smaller items on top of furniture that is for sale. There are two problems with doing this. Folks won’t realize tha the furniture is for sale and you’ll miss the attention of potential buyers. If the furniture item sells early in the sale, the items on top of it must be moved somewhere to move the furniture out. You don’t want to have to move a bunch of small items to the floor where they’ll get damaged and/or not noticed.
• Pricing
  • We have a couple of people who are pretty good judges of what an item will sell for and these are the people who do the pricing for our crew. If you have help, decide who will decide the prices and who will place the price on the item. Then work in tandem, one person calling out the price and the other putting a price sticker on the item. This gives time for the pricer to examine the next item while the other person takes the time to write a price and put it on the item
  • Pricing items can be a bit tricky. I use my knowledge of what the item sold for originally and make a price of somewhere between 1/4th and 1/2 of the original price as my asking price. Unless the item is a collectible that has appreciated in price, this system works pretty well.
  • If you have time to research the recent selling prices online, do so. You likely won’t get the full price at your sale, but you can use the price you find as your starting point for the “1/4th to 1/2 of original price” rule.
  • Put a price on every item for sale. A note saying “make offer” screams that there is something wrong with the item or that the seller doesn’t know what the item is really worth.
  • Decide how you want to handle dickering and post your policy on signs. Signs saying “Offers considered”, “Prices firm”, “Half price at Noon on Saturday” are time savers for you.

Sale Day Tips

• Check Out
  • Make sure you have lots of ones, fives and tens and change in your cash box or money belt. Establish a checkout area with a chair for you to sit on and table for the items to be placed on as they are totaled. Have some boxes and bags available for folks to carry away their treasures.
  • Establish a holding area for those who become heavily burdened. You love these people because they’ll spend lots of cash with you. You should do anything you can to encourage them to buy more.
  • Authorize only one person to do the dickering. Don’t send folks with price questions to various people for answers. You’ll be prey to the “so and so said this price” ploy that some unscrupulous buyers will try.
• Fluff and Fold
  • Police your sale and straighten out messes made by customers. Refold items, replace things into their proper place.
  • Fill in holes. Move things around. Move things upward where they’ll be better seen. Get things off the floor as quickly as you have spaces on your tables to do so.

Post Sale

• Have a plan for disposing of left over items. Those that are in good shape can be donated to a charity. Anything not in good shape should be tossed or given away free.
• Toward the end of your sale, begin adding these items to your “free box” in hopes that they will walk away and reduce your garbage bill.
• Box the charity items and bring them to the charity or have them ready and marked for pickup.
• Do NOT bring them back into your home. If you really didn’t want to sell them, they shouldn’t have been in the sale in the first place.

About Vintage Advertising Postcards

The first advertising postcards were introduced in Britain in 1872, and the genre sooned gained popularity as an effective promotional vehicle. Collectors look for cards with distinct and colorful illustrations or photos. While there are many collectors who specialize in the early advertising images or art deco images, collectors also specialize by theme.  Examples include collectors of alcohol,beer or wine cards, household products like soap or food, or services like dentists or doctors.

I recently listed several advertising cards using comic humor to remind doctor/dental patients of appointments.

Advertising Postcard-Dentist-Pink Panther

Advertising Card-Dentist-Family Circus Comics

Another popular topic are roadside attractions.

Advertising Postcard-Roadside Attraction

Advertising Postcard-Roadside Attraction

Another popular topic are gas station and motel/hotel postcards.

Advertising Postcard-Marina/Gas Station

Advertising Postcard-Hotel

And finally, here are advertisements for commercial travel ventures

Advertising Postcard-Rose Bowl Flea Market

Advertising Postcard-Colorado River Cruise

Hint: click on links and pictures for more information!

Last week I started to share some of my garage sale buying strategies.  This week I share how I select items to purchase and a little bit on dickering.  I’m writing from the perspective of someone who plans to resell the items.  This is where I make my profit…when I purchase the item.  The price I get for the item is independent of the price that I pay and it is up to me to make sure that I don’t pay too much.  I have to account for the hidden costs of selling (eBay fees, advertising costs,shipping supplies, etc.) I usually figure that if I can sell an item for double what I paid for it, I will make a profit after the hidden costs are paid.

• OK, you’ve been directed to the “whoosits”, when you arrive at the table scan quickly for items of interest.  Pick up those items and hold onto them as you check the price.
• Look over each one for any signs of damage. I have a loupe in my pocket or around my neck so I can really see any potential flaws. Sellers at garage sales don’t usually have time to check each item or may not have recognized the damage. Ask yourself if the damage is enough to keep a potential customer from purchasing it.  If so, don’t buy it.  If not, do a reality check on the price.  Most certainly you’ll get a lower price for it with damage than without. If the seller dickers, you can negotiate on the price.
• Look for maker marks or original labels.  These are a good sign that the item has been lightly used and carefully cared for.
• If you have a smartphone, and you are unsure about the saleability of an item, you can access the web and your favorite research site (mine is TeraPeak) to see what the item has sold for recently.
• As you accumulate items, place them in the seller provided box or at the checkout table while you continue to shop.  In your head you should total up the full amount the seller is asking.  This is important for dickering later.
• It is also useful to know what the item sold for originally.  Most garage sale items actually sell for 1/4 of the original price unless the item is collectible and has appreciated in price.  The prices the seller is asking may be higher or lower than this average, and it is useful to infer the seller’s mind set about prices from the ones being asked.
• And then begin the dickering.  I start dickering before the seller has begun to total the items. If I have a fairly large number of items, I’ll  start with an offer for all the items for a single amount.  This is where knowing the full asking price is helpful.  If the seller’s prices are on the high side, I’ll usually start with an offer that is about 1/2 of the asking prices.  If the prices are more reasonable, I’ll start at 2/3 or 3/4 of the asking price. 
• If the seller responds with a counter offer that is higher than I want to pay, I usually come up a bit in my offer and see if the seller is ready to come down a bit more.
• I usually don’t go too many rounds with a seller, as my time and theirs is precious and we’ll either come to an amicable agreement within 2-3 back and forth offers, or we won’t.  I also don’t disparage the goods.  It’s insulting to the seller and doesn’t bode well for an amicable agreement.
• If we don’t agree and the seller sticks to the original price, I have to decide whether or not I want to pay those prices.  I will then weed out the less profitable items as we total up the items. And reduce my total purchase as a result.  If the seller is amenable to lower offers on individual items, I’ll make them one by one as we total.
• And I have to pay attention to my bottom line.  I have to ask myself, will I be able to sell these items for twice what I’m paying?  If not, I’d better not make the purchase.
• And one last thought, if the seller’s prices are reasonable and I’ll make my necessary profit or a bit more, I don’t dicker at all.  I pay up and move on to the next sale.

This weekend is my town’s annual “World’s Longest Beach Garage Sale”!. More than 20 miles of nonstop garage sale heaven! I thought I’d give you some of my strategies for making a successful “score” at a garage sale:

• When you drive up to the sale, look for signs of organization. Someone who can’t set up tables to hold items and has things strewn everywhere is not going to have a clue about what to charge for things either. Unless you spot something from your car that you want, skip this sale. The aggravation is not worth your time.
• When you approach a promising sale, look for the basic organization of the sale. Are like things together? This is a good sign. If you don’t immediately see the type of item you’re looking for, ask where the “whoosits” are. You should be directed to the proper location. If there aren’t items that you’re interested in, consider moving on to the next sale. Don’t waste your time browsing a sale unlikely to have anything you’d be interested in buying. But before you go, have a quick scan of the items available just in case there is something of interest.
• Are items priced?    I generally do not like sales where items are not priced. But I will browse a sale anyway if promising items seem to be included.  I just find that dickering takes time and I don’t want to spend mine dickering over each item individually.  My idea of a good price and the seller’s are based on different realities.  To me, the whoosit is something for me to use or resell, and to the seller it holds fond memories about it’s acquisition or use in their life. This can lead to a prolonged back and forth while working out a price.
• Are there signs about policies such as “prices firm until noon” or “make an offer”? And I like sellers who can state their intentions about dickering and pricing.  It helps me to know without asking whether or not the seller is amenable to a lower offer.  Sellers don’t like to have to say “no” to a request for a lower price, and I don’t like to hear it either. It saves both our nerves to be upfront about “the rules” being followed.
• When you see something that you might buy, pick it up and carry it around with you as you continue to browse. If you do, you won’t have remorse that you missed an item you wanted because somebody else saw you put it down and picked it up because their attention was drawn to it. You can always decide not to buy it and leave it at the checkout table for the owner to replace on the table.
• If your load is getting heavy, ask for a box or if you can start a stack of items at the cashier’s table. Most sellers are happy to accommodate your needs in this regard. If you sense reluctance to do so, be wary about the sale as a whole. Something is wrong with this seller’s attitude. I’ve been known to put the stuff I was carrying around down right there and leave!
• Be polite and friendly. Smile! Even if you’ve decided not to buy anything, it is polite to thank the seller for letting you look.

It turns out I have a lot more points to make, especially about the fine art of haggling, but I’ll leave this topic for a future article.

Vintage Dashund Planter

They’re too cute to throw away, but too small to use for plants or they don’t have a drainage hole. So what can you do with a collection of vintage planters?

Here are some ideas from Martha Stewart and ebay user bloomingale54:

• business card holder
• pen and pencil holder
• paint brush holder
• fill with candy or small gifts and wrap with clear wrap for a lovely and quick gift
• use in the bathroom to hold hair clips, guest soaps,seashells or marbles
• use in the bedroom as a tray to hold change, keys or other contents of your pockets
• use to hold jewelry
• on your tea tray to hold sugar lumps, napkins,tea bags or cups
• at the kitchen sink to hold scrubbers, dish and hand soap, or bottle and vegetable brushes
• at your desk to hold paper and binder clips, pens and pencils, notepaper, and even the stapler and hole punch

To clean these beauties, always hand wash using a gentle scrubber and a product like Bon Ami to remove mineral deposits and water stains. Use a steel scrubber very gently to remove the most stubborn stains.

Hint: Click on the links for more information!